Let the annual hand-wringing begin, when we once again fret over what drinks to serve at Thanksgiving.
You’d think that after setting so many wine and spirits writers on the case for so many decades, we’d have finally solved this conundrum. Apparently, the search for the perfect Thanksgiving libation is more elusive than the cure for baldness.
Not that we don’t already have several well-worn paths to follow. There’s the traditional advice: Sparkling wine! Syrah! Gewurztraminer! There’s hipster advice: Sherry pairs with everything! We could go completely contrarian: Forget wine; drink artisanal cider! Or we could move straight to the esoteric: Sake, anyone?
Apparently none of those paths are particularly satisfying, because every year there’s still the collective bafflement over What. To. Do?
Perhaps we’re overthinking this, or we ought to realize there is no perfect pairing for any meal, let alone Thanksgiving, with its cornucopia of competing flavors and the varying levels of competence among the various family members doing the cooking. In my own family, everyone purports to be a drinks expert — and no one ever agrees with anyone else — and so there’s always a hodgepodge of beer, wine and spirits in the house.