As an adviser to a Chinese company making snack foods, Mesnier was mostly impressed with the consistency of Twinkie quality reproduction. But appreciation of technology can’t override dietary trends of aging, red-meat-shunning baby boomers to whom Twinkies are but a wistful high-fructose memory.
“The people who most mourned the death of the Twinkie are probably those who learned to quit eating them a long time ago,” said Thompson, who is 57 and admits a fondness for Pennsylvania-based rival Tastykake.
Twinkies came back to the brink of food relevance about a decade ago when a transplanted Briton named Christopher Sell opened an eatery in Brooklyn called the Chip Shop.
“We were credited with frying the first Twinkie — that’s my claim to fame,” said Sell, 47. “Maybe it will not be on my tombstone anymore. We did it as a joke just because. ‘Deep-fried Twinkie? Who . . . deep-fries a Twinkie?’ We put things on the menu from time to time just to get a reaction.”