June 25, 2013 |
It was one of the first pasta dinners I made after my sister and brother-in-law announced they were going vegan. We were in their kitchen in southern Maine, where I spent last year helping them with their homestead, and I was making a sauce from the best of the early summer produce, right from the huge garden outside. It was based on the classic French side dish of braised lettuce and peas, but I turned it Italian by tossing it with curly pasta and kept things light with a touch of mint.
April 23, 2013 |
Like many vegetable lovers, I've experienced mustard greens mostly as a salad ingredient. Those pungent little leaves give a nice punch to what can otherwise be as mild as, well, lettuce. But they're also becoming a favorite ingredient in heartier dishes, especially because they're available at farmers markets most, if not all, of the year. That same spicy flavor that sparks up a salad can add life to a quick pasta dish, in which mustard greens perform like a cross between spinach and broccoli rabe, with all the...
May 31, 2011 |
It's hard to imagine that Italy — a country thoroughly explored, not to mention plundered, by warriors, historians, artists, scholars, tourists and food lovers — has secrets left to yield. And yet, that must be part of the allure. Every time I return, I am struck by something that eluded me before: a hidden garden or fountain or an unfamiliar cobbled back street in an otherwise familiar town. Down such a street, you can hear the clatter of plates and cutlery, and smell the afternoon meal wafting from someone's...
August 12, 2011 |
In his memoir, " Heat ," author Bill Buford fulfills every food lover's dream and heads to Italy to learn to make pasta. There, in the town of Porretta, he is told to sit and watch. "Watching is good," his instructor, Betta, tells him every day for 10 days before she lets him pick up a piece of dough. "That was how I learned as a child: hours and hours, watching my aunts. " This is not the philosophy at La Vecchia Scuola Bolognese , a kind of boot camp for aspiring pastamakers, or...
March 14, 2012 |
The kitchen in Bryan Voltaggio's previous home was small. It had an electric oven, bisque-colored appliances and such a dearth of cabinet space that most of his cooking equipment was stored in a free-standing cabinet in another room. The kitchen in his home today? Well, it's much different. Earlier this year, Voltaggio, 35, moved his family of four to a five-bedroom house just down the road in Frederick. Not surprisingly, the kitchen was one of the main attractions for the chef.
March 6, 2013 |
Descriptions of Range, the latest creation from "Top Chef" alumnus Bryan Voltaggio, make the Chevy Chase Pavilion location sound more like an ocean liner than a restaurant. Three hundred seats! Thirty cooks! Nine food stations! Did you know Range also stocks two master sommeliers ? The last detail is offered by one of the title holders, who proudly tells her customers the claim is shared only with the fabled French Laundry in Napa Valley. Few restaurants have been as eagerly awaited as Range,...